One of the newest additions to Izmir’s gourmet scene, Potiri Meyhane boasts perhaps the most interesting location a sea-lover can find. The restaurant sits on a small manmade peninsula in the heart of Levent Marina (next to Uçkuyular Ferry Station), and almost anywhere you look, you are surrounded by deep-blue sea. This week, EatInIzmir had a chance to evaluate what Potiri has to offer.

The Food

With the offer of a prix fixe menu only, Potiri Meyhane surprised us with the abundance and the quality of the meze (cold samplings). Miniature green olives have been imported from Greece, the bread and salads came fresh, and a spinach fava, which was the first of its kind I saw in Izmir, was delicious and added a lovely touch to the meal. On top of this, we tasted six warm dishes that also come with the offer, including a cheese meatloaf, tenderly cooked lamb shish, fried liver seasoned with pepper and onions, and grilled mushrooms in cheese-covered sauce. All this went well with our choice of a Turkish rakı, although wine and soft drinks are also served.

The Atmosphere

We were unable to evaluate the atmosphere fairly because the original location, the peninsula, is currently being prepared for the winter. The restaurant was temporarily moved to the shore and thus felt traditional, although we were assured the peninsula will be ready by next Monday. Live music is usually played at Potiri (especially fasıl style). The restroom was, unfortunately, outdoors.

The Service and Prices

The service was decent with one exception: our request for an extra lemon had to be repeated, even though the meyhane was not crowded. We were too impressed with the food, however, to count this against the restaurant.

Prices were another aspect of Potiri Meyhane we really liked. The prix fixe menu is 40 TL per person, and the alcoholic drinks are reasonably priced considering the recent tax hike in Turkey.

Overall Impressions of the Restaurant

There are two other restaurants at Levent Marina, including a branch of the popular La-Cigale, as well as a bar, a lounge, and a caravan of colorful outdoor “kitchens” serving such Turkish “fast-food” classics as mussels, kokoreç, and kumru. If you visit any of those, please share your experiences with us. But for the food, the sea, and the music, I see myself returning to Potiri.

My rating: 4.5/5.0

How to Get There

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Address: Levent Marina, Haydar Aliyev Bulvarı No:4 Üçkuyular – Izmir
Tel : +90(232) 259 70 70
Fax : +90(232) 259 70 14
E-mail : info@leventmarina.com.tr

Otantik Bahçe, Sığacık: Authentic Aegean breakfast in a historical fortress

The fortress of Sığacık (a small town between Seferihisar and the historical site of Teos) is famous for its old houses, authentic small restaurants, and a farmers market that offers fresh produce and handmade souvenirs every Sunday. If you come here for breakfast on Sunday, you don’t even need to sit down to eat. Just walk through the market, buying olives, stuffed grape leaves and pumpkin blossoms, homemade bread and cheese. Or you could get a table in a cool inner garden of a small restaurant and enjoy your börek or gözleme (layered dough stuffed with roasted aubergines, potatoes, herbs, or cheese – or a combination of these).

One place worth visiting in the Sığacık fortress is a family-run small restaurant called Otantik Bahce. It is easy to find when you enter the fortress from the central gate. With a dozen tables in the garden, this restaurant boasts a relaxing atmosphere and friendly service. You can watch your gözleme being prepared, sip fresh homemade lemonade, and chat with the owners (well, in Turkish).

When we visited last week, stuffed grape leaves (sarma) were outstanding. We even asked for a portion to take home.

The owners are accommodating when it comes to your needs and preferences. Even though they had no stuffed pumpkin blossoms made at Otantik Bahce, the owners quickly brought a portion bought in the farmers market. And being local, they really know where to buy good food.

Spare a Sunday for a trip to Sığacık, and you are guaranteed authentic experience and great food.

How to get there
Address: Otantik Bahçe, İnci Ablanın Yeri, 128 Sk. No. 7, Kaleiçi – Sığacık

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You are in Alsancak, Izmir’s hangout hub. You have plenty of time on your hands and are looking for a quiet place to sit down, have a coffee, and read a book or a magazine. Where should you go?

ArmA Kitap & Cafe is located in Kordon almost opposite the Alsancak ferry station (iskele) and combines a book-and-music store with a cafe. The view of the sea and pleasant music in the background ensure this cafe enjoys a special relaxing atmosphere. Here, you may buy a book directly from the store, then take one of the tables inside or outside and read it.

The menu includes a breakfast plate (12.50 TL), a selection of salads and sandwiches, as well as pastry, various desserts, and different types of coffee (about 5-6 TL for French press coffee). The prices are at the standard Alsancak rates. The service was a bit slow, but the food was fresh and delicious. This may not be a good place for a quick breakfast, unless you buy a pastry and a coffee, but do come for coffee and a good read.

How to get there

Address: Atatürk Caddesi No:312/A Alsancak/İZMİR, 35220 Alsancak, Turkey
Phone: 0 232 465 07 71

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About an hour’s drive from Izmir (80 km from Konak) lies a town of Tire famous for its agricultural products and slim, short meatballs in tomato sauce, called Tire köftesi. This is where we head one Sunday afternoon to taste some of the local dishes at Tire’s Kaplan Dağ Restorant. Kaplan in Turkish means tiger, and the story is tigers used to roam the surrounding mountains until, well, civilization pushed them farther away from people.

The restaurant we chose sits on a mountain top in a village called Kaplan Köyü and has a vantage point on the entire town of Tire. We travel on a narrow, winding road with a lovely view of the valley below. The restaurant is cozy, decorated in Aegean-village style with wooden tables, dry corn hanging from the ceiling, clay pots, and evil eye beads, and it offers a good choice of meze—herbal and olive-oil-based samplings—as well as meat dishes. The available meze may vary depending on the season because the herbs come from local supplies and the famous farmers market of Tire (open on Tuesdays). For people drinking raki, keshkek—a dish of chicken mixed with wheat—may be recommended as a starter. The Tire köfte (meatballs) were delicious and truly a local classic. We were also pleased with the restaurant’s offer of the desserts, especially honey-imbued walnuts (ceviz krokan) and curds in black mulberry sauce (karadutlu lor).

When you are in Kaplan Dag restaurant, make sure to check out the backyard with tree stumps for chairs and wooden benches. It is recommended to arrive around sunset for the view and to avoid sitting in the summer heat, which is ubiquitous in Izmir province. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

For the best experience, come after your visit to Selçuk / Ephesus or on a Tuesday, so you can browse the farmers market and see the town’s historic mosques before heading up to Kaplan Köyü.

How to get there
Follow the signs to Tire. Drive past 3. nolu Sağlık Ocağı and follow Köy Yolu (Village road). Travel past Köy Meydanı (Village square) and follow the sign “Kaplan Dağ Restoranı” until you have reached your destination.
Phone: 0232 512 66 52, 0232 511 22 55
www.kaplandag.com

Cigerci Sinan: Best liver in Gaziemir

There are two reasons to go to Cigerci Sinan for lunch: (1) if you are in Izmir’s area of Gaziemir and (2) if you are looking to eat quality liver (ciğer) shish. In fact, people come from as far as Urla to Gaziemir just to have lunch here.

Other types of shish and kebab are on Cigerci Sinan’s menu, but liver is the specialty of this clean, unpretentious, and moderately priced restaurant. Ordering five skewers for starters is typical, and you won’t believe how quickly the pieces of liver will be eaten. Each order comes with plenty of lavash as well as greens, onion, salad, and a spicy vegetable-based paste.

Also on the menu
The meat shish was also delicious with just the right amount of fat on the skewer. Either ayran or fermented black carrot juice called shalgam would be a good choice for beverages. If you are ordering shalgam, note that the spicy version (acılı) has a rather strong taste. No alcoholic drinks are served here, as is typical of traditional Turkish restaurants like this. But complimentary tea is offered at the end of the meal, and the typical southern Turkish desserts are as good as they can get north of Adana.

How to get there
Atıfbey Mah. Etiler Cad. No:1/A, Gaziemir Merkez, Gaziemir, İzmir
Phone: +90 232 252 57 27, +90 232 252 62 11

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Begendik Abi boasts a reputation for being one of the best restaurants offering homemade-style food in Izmir’s Urla. Even the name playfully touts the meals here: “We’ve enjoyed it, brother.” To use a pun: we did.

Begendik Abi has a spacious entry floor with a dozen tables and a smaller garden by a creek downstairs at the back. The restaurant is situated next to an Urla mosque called Tatar Cami, so you can have a table with the view of this fine example of Islamic architecture. After the meal, feel free to browse the neighboring streets, many of which feature artisan workshops (look for Zafer Caddesi). You’ll probably need to take a walk after dining at Begendik Abi anyway.

Food-wise, one specialty of Begendik Abi — and that’s no surprise for Urla — is the olive-oil-based selection of appetizers. Make sure to try such classics as stuffed pumpkin blossoms (kabak çiçeği dolması), stuffed vine leaves (sarma), and stuffed artichoke (enginar dolması). The restaurant also offers a great selection of meat dishes.

We ordered a stuffed baby goat rib cage cooked in a special oven for about four hours (note: unless you’re planning to spend hours at the restraurant, place your order by phone before you come). The meat was soft and the skin finely roasted. While some patrons may fear that such a dish would have a heavy smell, we’ve detected none, as it was masked with the fragrance of herbs and spices. The pilaf used to stuff the rib cage received its taste not only from the meat but also from herbs and pieces of kidney added to the mix. Together with the salad, this dish was in excess for seven people, and it cost 180 TL (about 26 TL per person). It was well worth it.

A pleasant suprise from Begendik Abi was their offer of a homemade red wine, light in taste and rich in color. Most places proffering homemade food in Turkey have no alcohol on the menu (mainly because of high taxes and complex regulations). Roasted meat such as the stuffed baby goat rib cage had called for some wine.

Coffee at the end of the meal is served in traditional-style metal cups with decorative lids. The desserts, both pastry and milk-based, were delicious and, thankfully, very light.

Begendik Abi offers a culinary delight for any carnivore, and its location in picturesque and artisan Urla guarantees a wonderful weekend retreat from Izmir city center. If you don’t have a car, several buses and minibuses (dolmuş; including the Urla-bound dolmuş from Uçkuyular) pass by, and the restaurant is conveniently close to the Urla post office and the mayoralty (belediye).

How to Get Here:

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Address: Camiatik Mh. Tatarcamii Sk. No:12 (Malgaca Pazarı), Urla – Izmir, Turkey.
Tel: 0232 754 20 71
Email: bilgi@begendikabi.com.tr

During the last couple weeks I have been eating at “ChickInn” about 3 times.
Every time the food was really great. The first time I tried the Tatli Ekşi Soslu Tavuk/ Sweet and Sour Chicken. And there was nothing to complain about.
It was a perfect ending to a great day.
Some other time I had the Bambu Shoots Dana and the Fıstıklı Acılı Dana. Both was great as well.

The place is a informal place and therefore maybe not the right thing for a romantic dinner, but for all other occasions it is just perfect.
And I have to admit that dining alone as a women the ‘ChickInn’ is a great place.

Price, quality and service are just perfect and if the would decide to put a sesame chicken like they serve it in NYC I might become a regular once a week.

Editor’s Note:

As I have never been to that place we will publish our new member Heike’s review as it is. Please visit the restaurant and give your feedback as your comments. We will be waiting for further comments.

How to get there:

Chickinn Alsancak

Adress: Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cdç No 56 Alsancak/ Izmir
Tel: 465 0 880

Located in Guzelyali, a short ferry ride from Izmir city center, Flu Cafe offers a great option to have breakfast under palm trees and chestnuts. Apart from the typical Aegean breakfast, the menu includes a variety of sandwiches, toasts, pastries, salads, coffee, and hookah (nargile) flavors. You could also relax and enjoy the view or play backgammon with friends here.

A word of explanation is due. Flu is the Turkish spelling of the French flou, blurry. But I have to admit I picked a table before I saw the name. The cafe proved a good choice for a number of reasons.

First, the location. Flu Cafe is one good option in a row of attractive breakfast/tea places across the Goztepe ferry station.

Another factor in favor of Flu Cafe is its casual ambiance. Sitting in the shade on a sunny day and looking at the sea ruffled by breeze, ferries, and sail boats, one can appreciate the popularity of such cafes in Izmir. Turkish people call them çay bahçesi – tea gardens. Many come just for the view, hookah, and the strong flavor of Turkish tea. There is no rush here, which is the best way to understand the people of Izmir: sit back, relax, and enjoy life.

Price was yet another factor. I had a classic Aegean breakfast for 9.5 TL. That’s an egg sunny side up, tomatoes, cucumbers, goat cheese, yellow cheese, olives, sausage, toasted bread, a pastry, butter, honey, and jam. Add unlimited tea to the mix, and you get the yummy picture. We also tasted the mixed omelet (karışık omlet) for 7 TL and an Ayvalik toast, 5 TL. The ingredients were fresh and prices very competitive for a breakfast place in Izmir with a sea view. My only complaint was the bitterness of the tea. Unless you like strong brews of Turkish tea, make sure to ask its lighter version: açık çay.

Coffee and hookah are two other items worth ordering. If you like Turkish coffee, try damla sakızlı Turk kahvesi. If you smoke hookah, try the cappuccino flavor.

The service was professional and very attentive, although an EatInIzmir business card may have been the magic behind this. Normally, expect to wave or call out to the waiters in such places if you need assistance. They tend to leave you in peace until they get a clear sign from you. Which, I would say, is a good thing.

How to get there:

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Address: Flu Cafe, Mithatpasha Caddesi No: 1146/1-A, Guzelyali, Izmir, Turkey
Phone: 0232 246 4440

Dag (Dağ – Mountain) Restaurant is located in Sigacik (Sığacık) Seferihisar approximately 30 minutes by car from Izmir city center. Holding the Citta Slow label as Seferihisar, the yatch port of Sigacik is also supporting the Citta Slow movement and Dag restaurant is also a member of Slow Food.

You can try a great breakfast or you can wait for the  night to come and try delicious and daily appetizers (meze) and fish for sure. Eatinizmir tried Dag Restaurant for the breakfast this time. Everything was fresh and tasty, they were preparing the mezes they also seemed so delicious and they are definitely fresh which is pretty important for the taste of appetizer.

You are served a regular breakfast with two types of cheese, tomato, cucumber, green olive, black olive, chemen(çemen, is a mixture of some herbs with tomato paste, garlic, wallnuts and red hot pepper could also be added) which was really good, clotted cream with honey, sesame paste and molasses, armola ( a local mixture of different cheeses and yogurt, can be find in Seferihisar downtown in Zeybekoglu Mandira) and of course some crusty hot bread and your choice of eggs (scrambled, omelette, fried etc.) and also black tea.

The place was clean and the staff was really polite and welcoming. There is a great view of Seferihisar bay and also yachts which are passing by. We really enjoyed having a breakfast in Dag Restaurant. You can also stay in the Dag Motel which is located just above the restaurant.

How to get there:

Dag Restaurant

Address: Dag Pansiyon Restaurant, Sigacik Seferihisar Izmir

Tel: 0232 745 72 35

Web: www.dagmotel.net

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap, near Termal Hotel and the German Consulate in Izmir, is a small, non-touristy restaurant in Balçova that will appeal to devout carnivores.

It may be a little-known fact among foreigners: oltu kebap is the predecessor of the world-famous döner kebap. It takes its origins in Erzurum in eastern Anatolia. Unlike döner, oltu kebap is grilled horizontally; the slices are thicker (although not as thick as in şiş kebap) and served on a special oltu shish.

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap is a specialized restaurant. This means you won’t find a menu here. You may choose:

• what to drink (non-alcoholic beverages only; ayran is highly recommended) and
• whether you would like to have a salad (recommended).

The main course is oltu kebap, served with roasted peppers, onions, parsley and rocket salad, and Erzurum-style lavash.

Traditionally, the waiters will continue to bring you meat until you tell them to stop. It is more common nowadays, however, to mention whether you will want more after each round. Oregano, red pepper, and cumin are the spices for the meat. When eating oltu kebap, wrap meat slices, together with the side of your choice, into lavash, if you want to go all traditional.

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap has been in operation in Izmir since 1988, and is highly popular on weekends. It is minimalist in terms of decorations and tableware, which will allow you to focus on your food. It is a bit on the expensive side for a restaurant in Balçova, but this seems fair for the high-quality meat they serve. So, next time you are around Kipa-Balçova or on your way to Çeşme, stop by and let EatInIzmir know what you think!

How to get there:

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Address: Vali Hüseyin Öğütcan Cad. No: 27/A, Balçova, İzmir
Tel.: +90 232 277 3538