Cigerci Sinan: Best liver in Gaziemir

There are two reasons to go to Cigerci Sinan for lunch: (1) if you are in Izmir’s area of Gaziemir and (2) if you are looking to eat quality liver (ciğer) shish. In fact, people come from as far as Urla to Gaziemir just to have lunch here.

Other types of shish and kebab are on Cigerci Sinan’s menu, but liver is the specialty of this clean, unpretentious, and moderately priced restaurant. Ordering five skewers for starters is typical, and you won’t believe how quickly the pieces of liver will be eaten. Each order comes with plenty of lavash as well as greens, onion, salad, and a spicy vegetable-based paste.

Also on the menu
The meat shish was also delicious with just the right amount of fat on the skewer. Either ayran or fermented black carrot juice called shalgam would be a good choice for beverages. If you are ordering shalgam, note that the spicy version (acılı) has a rather strong taste. No alcoholic drinks are served here, as is typical of traditional Turkish restaurants like this. But complimentary tea is offered at the end of the meal, and the typical southern Turkish desserts are as good as they can get north of Adana.

How to get there
Atıfbey Mah. Etiler Cad. No:1/A, Gaziemir Merkez, Gaziemir, İzmir
Phone: +90 232 252 57 27, +90 232 252 62 11

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Begendik Abi boasts a reputation for being one of the best restaurants offering homemade-style food in Izmir’s Urla. Even the name playfully touts the meals here: “We’ve enjoyed it, brother.” To use a pun: we did.

Begendik Abi has a spacious entry floor with a dozen tables and a smaller garden by a creek downstairs at the back. The restaurant is situated next to an Urla mosque called Tatar Cami, so you can have a table with the view of this fine example of Islamic architecture. After the meal, feel free to browse the neighboring streets, many of which feature artisan workshops (look for Zafer Caddesi). You’ll probably need to take a walk after dining at Begendik Abi anyway.

Food-wise, one specialty of Begendik Abi — and that’s no surprise for Urla — is the olive-oil-based selection of appetizers. Make sure to try such classics as stuffed pumpkin blossoms (kabak çiçeği dolması), stuffed vine leaves (sarma), and stuffed artichoke (enginar dolması). The restaurant also offers a great selection of meat dishes.

We ordered a stuffed baby goat rib cage cooked in a special oven for about four hours (note: unless you’re planning to spend hours at the restraurant, place your order by phone before you come). The meat was soft and the skin finely roasted. While some patrons may fear that such a dish would have a heavy smell, we’ve detected none, as it was masked with the fragrance of herbs and spices. The pilaf used to stuff the rib cage received its taste not only from the meat but also from herbs and pieces of kidney added to the mix. Together with the salad, this dish was in excess for seven people, and it cost 180 TL (about 26 TL per person). It was well worth it.

A pleasant suprise from Begendik Abi was their offer of a homemade red wine, light in taste and rich in color. Most places proffering homemade food in Turkey have no alcohol on the menu (mainly because of high taxes and complex regulations). Roasted meat such as the stuffed baby goat rib cage had called for some wine.

Coffee at the end of the meal is served in traditional-style metal cups with decorative lids. The desserts, both pastry and milk-based, were delicious and, thankfully, very light.

Begendik Abi offers a culinary delight for any carnivore, and its location in picturesque and artisan Urla guarantees a wonderful weekend retreat from Izmir city center. If you don’t have a car, several buses and minibuses (dolmuş; including the Urla-bound dolmuş from Uçkuyular) pass by, and the restaurant is conveniently close to the Urla post office and the mayoralty (belediye).

How to Get Here:

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Address: Camiatik Mh. Tatarcamii Sk. No:12 (Malgaca Pazarı), Urla – Izmir, Turkey.
Tel: 0232 754 20 71
Email: bilgi@begendikabi.com.tr

Located in Guzelyali, a short ferry ride from Izmir city center, Flu Cafe offers a great option to have breakfast under palm trees and chestnuts. Apart from the typical Aegean breakfast, the menu includes a variety of sandwiches, toasts, pastries, salads, coffee, and hookah (nargile) flavors. You could also relax and enjoy the view or play backgammon with friends here.

A word of explanation is due. Flu is the Turkish spelling of the French flou, blurry. But I have to admit I picked a table before I saw the name. The cafe proved a good choice for a number of reasons.

First, the location. Flu Cafe is one good option in a row of attractive breakfast/tea places across the Goztepe ferry station.

Another factor in favor of Flu Cafe is its casual ambiance. Sitting in the shade on a sunny day and looking at the sea ruffled by breeze, ferries, and sail boats, one can appreciate the popularity of such cafes in Izmir. Turkish people call them çay bahçesi – tea gardens. Many come just for the view, hookah, and the strong flavor of Turkish tea. There is no rush here, which is the best way to understand the people of Izmir: sit back, relax, and enjoy life.

Price was yet another factor. I had a classic Aegean breakfast for 9.5 TL. That’s an egg sunny side up, tomatoes, cucumbers, goat cheese, yellow cheese, olives, sausage, toasted bread, a pastry, butter, honey, and jam. Add unlimited tea to the mix, and you get the yummy picture. We also tasted the mixed omelet (karışık omlet) for 7 TL and an Ayvalik toast, 5 TL. The ingredients were fresh and prices very competitive for a breakfast place in Izmir with a sea view. My only complaint was the bitterness of the tea. Unless you like strong brews of Turkish tea, make sure to ask its lighter version: açık çay.

Coffee and hookah are two other items worth ordering. If you like Turkish coffee, try damla sakızlı Turk kahvesi. If you smoke hookah, try the cappuccino flavor.

The service was professional and very attentive, although an EatInIzmir business card may have been the magic behind this. Normally, expect to wave or call out to the waiters in such places if you need assistance. They tend to leave you in peace until they get a clear sign from you. Which, I would say, is a good thing.

How to get there:

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Address: Flu Cafe, Mithatpasha Caddesi No: 1146/1-A, Guzelyali, Izmir, Turkey
Phone: 0232 246 4440

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap, near Termal Hotel and the German Consulate in Izmir, is a small, non-touristy restaurant in Balçova that will appeal to devout carnivores.

It may be a little-known fact among foreigners: oltu kebap is the predecessor of the world-famous döner kebap. It takes its origins in Erzurum in eastern Anatolia. Unlike döner, oltu kebap is grilled horizontally; the slices are thicker (although not as thick as in şiş kebap) and served on a special oltu shish.

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap is a specialized restaurant. This means you won’t find a menu here. You may choose:

• what to drink (non-alcoholic beverages only; ayran is highly recommended) and
• whether you would like to have a salad (recommended).

The main course is oltu kebap, served with roasted peppers, onions, parsley and rocket salad, and Erzurum-style lavash.

Traditionally, the waiters will continue to bring you meat until you tell them to stop. It is more common nowadays, however, to mention whether you will want more after each round. Oregano, red pepper, and cumin are the spices for the meat. When eating oltu kebap, wrap meat slices, together with the side of your choice, into lavash, if you want to go all traditional.

Ali Usta Oltu Kebap has been in operation in Izmir since 1988, and is highly popular on weekends. It is minimalist in terms of decorations and tableware, which will allow you to focus on your food. It is a bit on the expensive side for a restaurant in Balçova, but this seems fair for the high-quality meat they serve. So, next time you are around Kipa-Balçova or on your way to Çeşme, stop by and let EatInIzmir know what you think!

How to get there:

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Address: Vali Hüseyin Öğütcan Cad. No: 27/A, Balçova, İzmir
Tel.: +90 232 277 3538

Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi

Although it doesn’t look like much, Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi is one place in Izmir’s Göztepe area where you can eat cheap, delicious and local food. The biggest attraction is this eatery’s kokoreç, a toasted bread with fried lamb intestines, which offers generous amounts of meat with just the right amount of spices.

Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi is located across from Adnan Saygun Culture Center. It is a small place with just three tables indoors and a couple of tables outdoors, if the weather permits. Open until 1 am, it is a perfect eatery to satisfy the traditional Turkish craving for a kokoreç after a night out. (After living in Izmir for almost two years, I’ve somewhat fallen into the same habit.)

The kokoreç that Göz Göz offers is easy on spices but generous with meat and is probably one of the most delicious examples of this Turkish delicacy that I’ve tried so far. The place has an official certificate stating that it meets the necessary sanitary standards, which is crucial with meals like kokoreç.

A fresh calamari stew

Apart from kokoreç, Göz Göz offers various types of Turkish and Cypriot foods, meatballs, and soups and stews of the day.

For example, if you come here on a Saturday around 1 pm, you may ask for a plate of calamari stew. One of Göz Göz owners, Ibrahim Capak, goes out on his fishing boat early in the morning each Saturday to get some fresh calamari. When he comes back, his wife, Behiye Capak, cooks them for 2.5 hours, adding carrots, potatoes and spices to offer Göz Göz Büfe patrons a fresh “kalamar yahni”.

The kokoreç here costs 4 TL and the daily stew is about 3.50 TL. You may have ayran, tea or a cup of Turkish coffee with your meal.

Two of Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi owners, Behiye and Ibrahim Capak

The decorations in Göz Göz Büfe range from the traditional evil-eye beads and the portrait of Atatürk to Turkish watercolors, a bow with arrows and the flag of Göztepe football team. This may not be the place to bring your business partners to, but Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi is a good choice to eat local and cheap.

How To Get Here

Göz Göz Büfe & Kokoreç Evi
1192/C Mithatpaşa Cad.
(Adnan Saygun Kultur Merkezi karsisi)
Tel. 0232-247-1323
Home delivery and take-out services available


Daha Büyük Haritayı Görüntüle

When I first visited Asansör in December 2007, it was a half-empty restaurant with a breathtaking view and shockingly average food. For a prime location as this, any gustatory disappointment was unforgivable.

Thankfully, I wasn’t the only one who thought so. In February 2009, the Izmir Municipality took charge of the historical Elevator, presently turning it into one of the hottest dining places in the city. The new administration also introduced a new chef, Mr. Mehmet Sirkeci, a choice we cannot but commend.

The restaurant opens for dinner at 7:30 p.m., about an hour before the spectacular sunset over the Izmir Bay. It’s a good idea to arrive a little early to savor the view and have a drink or two in the bar. Reservations, generally recommended, are absolutely a must if you’re visiting on Friday night or over the weekend.

Upon my first visit since the restaurant changed hands, the food in Asansör finally matched my expectations. My bonfile with veggies, herbs and mushrooms (Isırgan Otlu Fleto Sarma for 19 TL) was delightful. The T-Bone (25 TL) was slightly overcooked if you like your steak rare, but a bloody steak is so foreign to Turkey that this is hardly a crime. The restaurant also offers a wide selection of the more traditional Turkish kebabs, which, rest assured, are cooked just the way they should be.

Coupled with a nice wine, Asansör cuisine finally offers a treat to your taste. And the restaurant’s unchanging trump card – the excellent view of the Izmir Bay and the city skyline make it worthwhile to celebrate any special occasion in Asansör.

For more background on the historical significance of Asansör or to learn the restaurant’s location and contact info, please revert to our earlier post: Asansor: The Best View of Izmir.

This cafe boasts 4000-m2 area with tables both indoors and outdoors

Palamutluk Bahce Café, as the Turkish name suggests, welcomes you to a garden under centuries-old Valonia oak trees. Here peacocks roam free, squirrels play in the trees in summer and the atmosphere of peacefulness and tranquility can make your breakfast or a barbecue party an unforgettable event.

Palamutluk Bahce Café offers some of the best examples of Aegean cuisine, with meatballs, salads, goat cheese and a variety of borek. (Special tip from Eat in Izmir: Make sure you try Palamutluk’s sigara boregi. It has earned highest marks from our food critics when we visited this place in summer 2009.)

In the afternoon, you can request a barbecue grill (mangal) and enjoy best cuts of meat grilled in the open.

Palamutluk Bahce Café is open every day for breakfast, barbecues and special events, including weddings. It is surrounded by extensive gardens of oranges and tangerines in Izmir’s Guzelbahce area and may be perfect for a Sunday’s outing.

Exotic birds roam freely in Palamutluk Bahce Cafe under centuries-old oak trees

It is highly recommended to visit Palamutluk Bahce Café when the weather is nice. Although they do have indoor facilities, you wouldn’t want to miss the fresh air with a scent of blooming citrus trees.

Finally, a meal wouldn’t be complete without a cup of Turkish tea or coffee. Both were served fresh here and passed the strictest judgment of Eat in Izmir hard-to-please tea lovers.

Arguably the biggest disadvantage of this place – especially for tourists visiting Izmir – is its distance from the city center. Yet others may enjoy it even more so for being away from the busy city.

How to Get There:

Palamutluk Bahce Cafe:
Buladanalti Kumesi
110 Sok. No: 21 1923/A-25
Guzelbahce, Izmir

Tel: 0232 234 6092

Website: www.palamutluk.com

If you are willing to see Izmir especially at night from one of the best views Asansor -Turkish spelling for elevator or lift- is exactly the right place for your desires. Besides all tastes you can enjoy in Asansor, just the view is enough to use this 101 years old elevator.
Asansor is just placed at one end of the street is the Beth Israel Synagogue, the largest in İzmir. The synagogue is the most venerable historical witness in this area, which was the hub of İzmir’s – now diminished – Jewish community. In the middle ages Jews who migrated to Anatolia from Spain swelled the existing community of Byzantine Jews.

Standing in front of the entance you will see Dario Moreno Street and smell beautiful jasmines and magnolias along with the pleasant view of old Izmir houses lined in the street.The street named after the 1960′s famaous singer Dario Moreno. You can also find his house – now a museum – on the left side of the street. In the wall of his house you can see his last wish and the poem he wrote…

İzmir, my sweet and beloved city
If one day I should die far from you
Let them bring me here
But when carrying me to my grave
Let them not say HE DIED,
but that he SLEEPS in your embrace
My sweet

Then you will see the beautiful Asansor which was built in order to rescue people from climbing 50 meters of 155 stairs. The pair of lifts are contained in a tower-like building 51 metres in height constructed in 1907. The bricks for the tower were shipped from Marseilles.To the left is the building which formerly housed the machine room, but will shortly open as a café and cultural centre. Above the entrance at the base of the tower is a marble plaque bearing the name of the builder Nissim Levy and the construction date.

After a short journey with today rebuild modern lift you will reach the restaurant, cafe and bar facilities where you can relax and enjoy the view.At the top a broad bridge leads into the part of the tower which now houses a restaurant, where in summer it is possible to eat out on the two linked terraces. The restaurant includes a small mezzanine for VIP guests. A spiral staircase leads down to a bar on the lower floor, where original Genoese suits of armour brought from Italy are on display.

Then you have the options as indoor or outdoor restaurant, cafe and a Genoese Bar. We highly recommend the restaurant outdoor in summer.  You can enjoy some of the best wines from the area and try Turkish, Italian or French cuisine of your taste. They are all promising star flavours for your satisfaction.

Eatinizmir recommend you to try the speciality of Asansor, called “Asansor Kebap”. A traditional Turkish Kebap with crispy hay thick fried patatos, sliced beef and meat balls served with yogurth and a special tomato sauce.

While enjoying your dinner and wine – or a drink of your choice – don’t forget to dream with the spectacular view of Izmir from your table. You can see half of the Izmir without any difficulty from that point. Even the ferryboats arriving at Konak Quay can be seen in the distance, and the winding shores of Alsancak, Karşıyaka and Konak spread out below you like the hair of a beautiful mermaid blowing in the soft breeze.

How to get there:

To find the place could be a little tricky for a first timer. So you can take a taxi to the restaurant it is not far away from Konak or Alsancak.

Asansor Restaurant

Contact Information:

Address: Dario Moreno Sk. Karatash IZMIR

Telephone:0090 232 2612662 – Reservation is recommended, especially for weekends.